Rabai Church

Historic Churches in Kilifi

Rabai Cultural Landscape: A New Dawn

Started in 1846, Rabai Mission became the foremost missionary base in Kenya. Inspired by the mettlesome adventures of David Livingstone, Johann Ludwig Krapf, who arrived in Mombasa on January 3rd, 1844, and joined later in 1846 by Johannes Rebmann, under the Church Missionary Society (CMS), would become Kenya’s avant-garde missioners. Soon after, the British Methodist Mission arrived.

Johann Ludwig Krapf was born at the village of Derendingen, near Tübingen city in Germany, on January 11, 1810. The name Ludwig, “wrestler,” conferred on him at his baptism, was, he observed later in his autobiographical reminiscences, “no inapt appellation for one who was destined to become a soldier of the cross.” It was in his fifteenth year that the call came, which he afterwards so nobly obeyed.

The inflection point came when the rector of the school read an essay to his pupils on missions to the heathen, of which Krapf now heard for the first time. Instantly the question sprang up in his mind, “Why not become a missionary, and go and convert the heathen?” And thus, on February 6, 1837, four months before Queen Victoria ascended the throne of England, the ardent young Krapf left Basle for Marseilles, whence he sailed for Malta, on his maiden overseas mission.

In short order he transitioned southeast – to Africa – choosing Egypt and his jumping off place. In his brief stayr in Egypt at Alexandria, he married. This would the first of three marriages in his lifetime. From Alexandria he travelled to Cairo, where he remained for five months with the CMS. After some experience of the usual difficulties of African travel, Krapf succeeded in joining the missionaries C. W. Isenberg and C. H. Blumhardt at Adowa, the capital of Tigré.

While in Ethiopia, Krapf studied linguistics, with such accomplishment that the University of Tübingen awarded him an honorary doctorate. His evangelistic work was attended with great difficulty, however. The hostile influence of early Churches in Africa caused the expulsion of Krapf and his brethren from Tigré. Gallantpartly due to opposition from two French Roman Catholic Priests.

Having learned of an ethnic group called the Oromo in East Africa he set course for a new region. He set off for East Africa hoping to reach the Oromo, from what is now the Kenyan coast. When Krapf arrived on the coast, Seyyid-Said was at the height of his influence, and had lately transferred his capital from Muscat to Zanzibar. On this occasion Krapf was only a few hours at Mombasa.

On January 7th, 1844, he reached Zanzibar, where he was kindly received by the Sultan (or Imam), and by both the English and American Consuls. The latter wished him “to remain in Zanzibar, preaching on Sundays to its few Europeans, working amongst the Banians from India, founding schools for the Swahilis and Arabs, and preparing books.” he same year he married Rosina Dietrich, but she died two years later and is buried together with their infant daughter in Mombasa.

Krapf, however, was still longing to reach the Oromo, or Galla, and could not rest until he had made firm his footing on the mainland; and the work he declined was undertaken many years after and is still carried on by the Universities’ Mission. He obtained a letter from the Sultan which ran as follows: “This comes from Seyyid-Said, Sultan; greeting all our subjects, friends, and governors. This letter is written on behalf of Dr. Johann Krapf, a German, a good man who wishes to convert the world to God. Behave well to him, and be everywhere serviceable to him.”

With this he started to explore the coast. But soon after his arrival at Mombasa, where he had been joined by his family, tragedy struck, as his wife and child died from malaria. Krapf moved to the higher grounds of Rabai, along the coastal range, where he begun this station. In 1846 he was joined by Johannes Rebmann, a German Lutheran, who was also in the CMS’s service. Philanthropic, economic, and eventually imperialist ventures followed these evangelical endeavors.

In September 1853 Krapf left Rabai for reasons of health for the last time and spent a year in England before revisiting Ethiopia, at the request of Bishop Samuel Gobat of Jerusalem, to assess the possibilities for reestablishing mission work there, before finally settling back in Germany at Kornthal, a center of Pietism, which became his home for the rest of his life. He married again in 1856, his second wife being Charlotte Pelargus, the eldest daughter of a city councilor of Stuttgart; they had one daughter, Johanna. Charlotte Krapf died in 1868, and the following year Krapf was married for the third time, to Nanette Schmidt von Cannstadt.

Nothing of great moment, however, occurred until 1846, when a German, Carl Peters, riding a tide of Europe’s diplomatic hostility between Germany and Britain, secured the grant of an imperial charter for his German East Africa Company”. Ludwig Krapf’s deteriorating health forced him to return to Germany in 1853. Of interest at Rabai are; Krapf Memorial Museum, Livingstone memorabilia, and Kaya Kambe Shrines. Rabai Museum is situated 25 km north of Mombasa near Mazeras.


You don’t have to be religious, or even spiritual, to enjoy a beautiful old church. The architecture, the stained glass, the history, and the famous graves all make visiting historic churches a fulfilling activity on any trip. Kenya has a lot of very old and lovely churches, and you can enter most of them free of charge, at any time. 


Touring Kilifi County offers a delightful blend of coastal beauty, lovely beaches, cultural richness, natural wonders, and fascinating ancient ruins. Whether you’re seeking pristine beaches, historical sites, or vibrant cultural experiences – or a combination, Kilifi promises a memorable and enriching travel experience.

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For the greater part of the year, the climate along the coastal plain is pleasurable, though humid. Temperature ranges between 21C and 30C along the coast, and between 30C and 34C further inland.

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