Bura Catholic Church

Historic Churches in Taita Taveta

Bura Catholic Church: Our Lady of Good Hope

In the hill country below Taita Hills on Bura Valley, 16 km from Mwatate and 6 km off A23 Voi-Taveta Road north of Mlegwa, Bura Mission Church, a muted, simple, goodly, sandy-gray coloured block holding appears custom-made for its bucolic setting. At the brow of a hill where the winding roadway makes a sharp curve, in beautiful surroundings overlooking Taita Hills, the old church slumbers away the years amid quiet village life. Bearing minimal architectural distinction, it’s easy to scurry past it without noticing its presence, ergo it is impossible to disregard how it enshrines a sense of Christian heritage in Kenya. A nexus of the modern gospel!

It was in this rural village of Bura that missionaries first introduced Christianity to the remote hinterland and built the Catholic Church christened Our Lady of Good Hope. Founded by the Holy Ghost Fathers in 1892, Bura Mission Church merits its commendation as the first inland Catholic Mission in Kenya. More proper, it was founded by Monsignor De Courmont, an Apostolic Vicar, and Father Jean Flick of the Holy Ghost Fathers in the depths of Taita a decade before the general wave of European missions entering hinterland Kenya from Mombasa, seeking a foothold inland, now made easier and faster by the completion of the Uganda Railway.

Prior to the establishment of Bura Mission, Mombasa Mission had been used as a settlement house for the Kilimanjaro Mission (in German East Africa) to transport construction materials, Church furniture, and house requisites to Kilema via large caravans assembled in Mombasa. The porters for the caravans were chiefly from the Taita sub-tribes. It was from the Wataita porters that the missionary Fathers learnt of Bura Valley and from whom the first invitation to found a mission to Bura came. Chief Mbogholi, an influential local leader and elder, also approved of this.

Monsignor De Courmont decided to move up from Mombasa, and build a Mission at Bura, which would serve as an excellent “halfway house’’. So, they travelled for eleven days and nights to Bura with a party consisted of 1 Muslim cleric, 6 askaris and 16 Taita porters, who carried a 40 kg load each. Note: current distance from Mombasa to Bura by road presently 193 km. On arrival De Courmont and Father Flick had a look-see of the area courtesy of Chief Mbogholi. They chose a lovely spot near the mountain stream as the site for the Mission and named it Our Lady of Hope from the reasoning that the stream was a sacrosanct sign from Our Lady.

On October 18, 1892, Chief Mbogholi proclaimed the handing over 250 acres of land to the Bura Mission as a gift, but later demanded payment. He was given bales of calico cloth as payment. The initial buildings were a community house and chapel with the mission hospital following later in 1892. On September 30, 1896, Bura Mission Church was unveiled and its very first mass was celebrated on the same day. The first baptism also took place and many soon followed including the Chief’s wife. Introduction of the mission saw many Taita traditionalists convert to Catholicism. It also opened doors for the local populace to acquire education.

When the First World War broke out, tragedy struck the mission and despite their gainful community initiatives, the German priests and nuns came under suspicion of likely sympathies with German infiltrators. The Mission was closed by military decree on September 2, 1914. The priests were interned in a civilian camp in South India, the mission natives were sent to Lamu and the nuns were made to walk the 140 miles to Mombasa as punishment for allegedly hosting and caring for several saboteurs during the opening days of the war. On the perilous journey to the coast most of the nuns died after contracting typhoid fever from drinking water out of a contaminated well. When the hostilities ended, the military hospital closed and the mission was allowed to re-open. In the same year, 1919, all the native mission staff and followers who had been in Malindi and Lamu were allowed to return.

The building of 125 years still stands, resolute; however, the rusty roof and rotten timbers have known prolonged neglect. Some of the iron roofing sheets are still inscribed “to Bura via Zanzibar” as they were originally shipped from Antwerp in Belgium then came by dhow (ship) to Mombasa. The weather-beaten walls with patches of peeled plaster revealed small sun-fired adobe bricks, vouching for its age. The grey, metallic statue of the Virgin Mary still faces approaching visitors.

the still functioning church bell, dated 1897, came from Salzburg in Austria and that the glass, most of which is still intact, came from Alsace. The interior is not elaborate at all but has old paintings depicting the life of Jesus and the Virgin Mary alongside the Stations of the Cross as well as statues of Jesus, Joseph, the Virgin Mary and a unique old sanctuary light. The focus point is the altar with a crucifix hanging above it. A new church has since been built to the right of the old one.

From Bura Mission, now made easier and faster by the Uganda Railway, Catholism spread fast to Tana River, Ukambani and Mombasa, before reaching Nairobi – the capital, Meru, Nyeri and regions further north. Today, the Catholic Church in Kenya has 24 dioceses, including an apostolic vicariate and a military ordinariate. Based on the 2019 national census, 10.6 million Catholics in Kenya are strict adherents and attend Mass regularly, making up about 23.3% of the country’s population. 


You don’t have to be religious, or even spiritual, to enjoy a beautiful old church. The architecture, the stained glass, the history, and the famous graves all make visiting historic churches a fulfilling activity on any trip. Kenya has a lot of very old and lovely churches, and you can enter most of them free of charge, at any time. 


Situated in south-western Kenya, and part of the Coast Region of Kenya, Taita-Taveta County is known for its stunning landscapes, rich biodiversity, and cultural heritage. The county features diverse landscapes, including the Taita Hills, which are part of the Eastern Arc Mountains, and the vast plains of Tsavo, which are part of Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks – Kenya’s largest wildlife preserve.

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The mean temperature in Taita Taveta is 23 Degrees Celsius, cooler around the hills and hotter on the Nyika where the Tsavos sit. Rainfall distribution is uneven, with the highlands receiving higher rains than the lowland areas.

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