Unusual Attractions in Nyandarua
Happy Valley: Hazy Past or Wasted Potential?
There are several beautiful places around Kenya that also carry hazy or obscure histories – real or perceived – none, perhaps, as the much talked about but rarely visited Wanjohi Valley of the once exceptionable Happy Valley. Reachable without difficulty from Nairobi, Naivasha, Nyahururu and Nyeri, welcome to the theatre of old-wives-tales and delightful scenery, mountains, rivers, and forests. A secluded enclave in bucolic settings that evokes a knotty mix of admiration for its tranquility and architectural relics, parallel to the lingering awareness of the secretive events that occurred here, which would later be waxed-lyrical by writers over the years.
Since the appliance of the Crown Ordinance Act in 1902 – in this Act, and in all conveyances, leases and licences and in all agreements, notices and documents relating to ‘productive’ land being granted to colonial powers and settlers – the mostly European settlers took control of the inchoate farming industry, to help grow the industry and develop the economy, by preference taking up the “White Highlands” around Central Kenya where the climate was very favorable. These farms often came with demands for strict economic, ethical and environmental behaviour, and rather attractive terms, encouraging the arrival of many settlers.
By this token, Nyandarua, sparsely inhabited and in excellent climate was settled by many nationalities – Americans, French, Italians, Norwegians, Swedes, Indians, South Africans, and Germans. Next door, too, astride the Rift Valley in Naivasha, Gilgil and Nyahururu, were many settlers. But from 1920 to around 1941, Wanjohi Valley and its satellites was a playground of the affluent settlers. Their hedonistic lifestyle, with tales of lavish parties, affairs, and scandals, where wife-swapping and drug abuse was the norm rather than exception, culminated with the death of Lord Errol in 1941. It is rumoured that Al Capone used to hide in the Happy Valley!
Popularized through books – Ghosts of Happy Valley by Juliet Barnes, Child of Happy Valley by Junita Carberry, and White Mischief By James Fox – Happy Valley came under the limelight, internationally. The key players included Idina Sackville, Lord Errol, 3rd Baron Delamere, 4th Baron Delamere, Denys Finch Hatton, Sir Jock Delves Broughton, Diana Delves Broughton, Alice de Janzé, and Frédéric de Janzé. On a lesser extent were: Gilbert Colville, Hugh Dickenson, Jack and Nina Soames, Lady June Carberry, Dickie Pembroke, and Julian Lezzard. The ‘Happy Valley Set’ remain a fascinating part of Kenya’s history, often explored in literature and film.
Still and all, many other noble pioneer settlers, who were not as well-known as the Happy Valley Set, built elegant colonial houses. Several old houses and their history dot the region. Above ground on the range, Shamata, which in Maa lingua means ‘high place’, or the upland place sited east of this valley, are many elegant colonial houses, some maintained to date, others partly demolished and re-used, and still others neglected in a state of disuse and ruin. Noted for their roofs made with wood shingles, many of these houses have verandas facing the Aberdares, with Laikipia plains in the back. Certainly, they had a knack for choosing locations.
From the decline of Happy Valley in 1941 to Kenya’s independence in 1963, is a fast sequence of turmoil, alignment and reform. Nyandarua District, almost exclusively reserved for settler farming, was nearly empty. In fact, Nyandarua as we know it now was born after independence. With the introduction of ‘settlement’ schemes to populate it, and abutting Laikipia, natives began to immigrate from other parts of the country, mostly Kiambu, Murang’a and Nyeri. But its obvious challenges of harsh upland climate and poor lines of communication, immigration reduced to a trickle. Few dared life in Wanjohi Valley despite its vantage below Mount Kipiriri.
Still largely an isolated corner of Kenya, but a happy quiet village with a selection friendly folk in farms flanked by the Aberdare Range, Wanjohi Valley offers a blend of history, nature, and adventure. The agrestic haunting beauty of the surrounding landscape, and the somber, quiet atmosphere of the place is loud. It is a reminder that beauty and darkness can coexist. A venture beyond Happy Valley takes one through the rustic Ol Kalou town, with some of its old houses still adorning roof shingles, past the former home of Happy Valley member Morgan Glenville, which is by Malewa River, on the road to Naivasha, and up the escarpment. The view of Wanjohi to the south as you climb, with Lake Ol Bollosat to the north, is stunning.
Enough has been written about the Happy Valley, but what about its legacy? Over seven decades later, and it seems no one has realized its wasted potential in spite of massive interest. It has really not been sold as destination. If well packaged, its relics could bring Nyandarua and other counties recognition and income. Kenyans and the descendants of the original owners would love to visit these houses, at a fee. But they need to be repaired. The distance from Nairobi is another great asset.
Around Kenya are a selection of natural landmarks, cultural shrines, architectural oddities, and technological installations that offer incredible, almost surreal experiences that can make you feel as if you’ve stepped into another world. Hauntingly beautiful to some, eerie sights for others, and still, for others, down right strange, these site provide unique experiences for adventurous travelers.
Index of Unusual Attractions Around Kenya
Baringo County - Olduka (Mogotio) Valley, Busia County - The Alupe Leprosy Centre, Elgeyo Marakwet County - Kipteberr, Isiolo County - Magado Crater, Magado Cave Dwellings, Nantudu Spire Rock, Merti Catholic Church, Buffalo Springs, Harr Girrissa, Kericho County - Van Wicker's Cave, The Kipkelion Monastery, Kilifi County - Hell's Kitchen, Luigi Broglio Space Centre, Ngomeni Shipwreck, Kwale County - Three Sisters Caves, Mrima Hills Rare Earth Mine, Laikipia County - Sirmon & Nyariginu Confluence, Lamu County - The Lamu Donkey Sanctuary, Machakos County - Komarock Shrine, Kituluni Magical Hill, Makueni County - Kenze Gorges, Virgin Mary Shrine, Emali Trig, Holy Nzaui Rock, Mandera County - Marehan Sandstone, Marsabit County - Chalbi Desert, Meru County - Mystical Lake Nkunga, The Giant Footprints, Mombasa County - Kizingo, Mbaraki Pillar, Muranga County - Muranga Gorges, Nakuru County - Longonot Earth Station, Menegai, The Djinn House, Diana Caldwell's Shrine, Nandi County - Sheu Morobi Cliffs, Kopere Rocks, Nyandarua County - The Kinangop Step, Wanjohi Happy Valley, Dragon's Teeth, Nyeri County - Italian Memorial Church & Somali Wall, Taita Taveta County - The Taita Skull Caves, Shetani Lava, Yatta Springs, Nyiri Taru Desert, Crystal Caves at Lake Chala, Salaita (Slaughter) Hill, Haunted Sniper's Tree, Turkana County - Kapedo Falls, Lake Alablab, The Turkana Boy Monument, Samburu County - Samburu Singing Wells, Ngurunit Pools & Slides, Mystical Emuruangogolak, Vihiga County - Wagevere Rock, Nganyi Rainmakers Forest, Wajir County - Shaletey Caves
Greatly positioned as an agrarian hub, with increased investment in infrastructure, Nyandarua County is also famous for its scenic landscapes and montane climate. Named after the Aberdare Ranges, with an extensive presence, Nyandarua grew as an agribusiness locale but is well making a name for itself as an alpine escape.
You Are Here: Wanjohi (Happy) Valley
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Explore Destinations Nearby Wanjohi (Happy) Valley
A Guide to Nyandarua County
A Summa Digest of Nyandarua
About Nyandarua Way Back When
45 Destinations in Nyandarua County, arranged as one would visit these - south, north then west - with aid of in-depth narratives, images, strip maps and distance chart:
Matches Dam, Gitwe Viewpoint, Mawingu Camp Kenya, Heni Viewpoint, Kijabe Hills, Kinangop Step, Ragia Forest Trail, Sasumua Dam, Sharpe's Longclaw Nature Reserve, Elmer Resort & Spa, Cheese House, Njabini, Elephant Hill, Aberdare Range, Kinangop Plateau, Mount Kipipiri, Mount Kipipiri Golf & Resort, Wanjohi Valley (Happy Valley), Davida Getaway, Wanjohi Falls, Kenungu Falls, Buxton House, Rurimeria Forest Trail, Mount Satima, Table Mountain, Dragon’s Teeth, Cedar Retreat (Log Cabin), Ndaragwa Falls, Ndaragwa Forest, Maverick Camp Rondavels & Farmstay, Malewa Bundu Camp, Plovers Eco Camp, Dundori Forest, Lake Ol Bolossat, Samawati Conservancy, Olrok Farm House, Laikipia Plateau, Tafaria Castle & Center for Arts, The Fairway Residence, Carnegie House (Ngobit Girls School), Knessiah Jewish Synagogue, Thompson Falls
Know More About Nyandarua County: Geography, Land-Use, Highlights, Population, Roads - including strip maps, Airports, Climate & National Monuments
Thanks to its high altitude, all of Nyandarua experiences pleasant to low temperatures. Highest temperatures are in the month of December that bears an average temperature of 25oC: Lowest in July, 14oC.
To the east, the Aberdare Range traverses its border with Nyeri County. End to end, the Aberdare Range, with vast presence in Nyandarua is a whooping great 565 km.