Takaungu Old Town

Historic Towns in Kilifi County

Old Town Takaungu: Layered With History

On appearances alone, the rural town of Takaungu gives away little of its charm. There’s little to commend its infrastructure, services, and economic opportunities, compared to other urban or more developed towns along the coast. Takaungu, on the surface of it is, more or less, a cluster of simple, detached, stone holdings, some with thatched roofs. Yet, Takaungu town, more proper village, is steeped in Swahili culture and history. Under the veil, it is known for its diverting history and Swahili architecture, with old stone houses that reflect centuries-old traditions.

Takaungu’s origin is most likely as a benefactor of ancient trade. For eons – before, during and after the sequence of conquests along the Swahili Coast – Mombasa’s position as a trade hub attracted a lot of maritime trade links. This is to also say that there was a north-south trade link with the other coastal towns. Mombasa’s commercial organization was also geared to the needs of the coastal trade. And it was certainly a large trading hub. In the year 1328 when IBN Battuta, the Arabian geographer, visited the Swahili Coast, her population was estimated at 10,000.

By the 15th century, it was reported that the trade with other coastal town, like Malindi, Kilwa, Mogadishu and Sofala was vibrant. Malindi, by virtue of its good location and harbour, carried on a lot of trade with Mombasa. In turn, to better organize trade, transitory towns between these two towns developed, including Mambrui and Takaungu, to trade with Malindi. Over many generations, Takaungu benefitted as half-way post for trade caravans. Intrinsically small with subdued politics, Takaungu withered the Portuguese milieus during their rule of the coast.

While its lack of prominence was a blessing for evading the rampant raising of towns during the Portuguese era, its fortunes would turn in disfavour during the succeeding Arab rule of the Swahili Coast. Takaungu’s claim to fame came in 1837, when the Mazrui dynasty of Mombasa was toppled by the Omani arabs, from the Busaidi dynasty at Zanzibar. Some of the Mazrui moved to Takaungu, and grew the settlement here, while another group moved to Gasi, south of Mombasa. At Gasi they subdued the local population and established their coconut plantations.

At the beginning of the 19th century, Mombasa was ruled by the Mazrui family who had originally been installed as governors by the Sultan of Oman in the 18th century but who became independent from Oman. During the same period, the Busaidi dynasty took control of Zanzibar and Kilwa. Following a long struggle, the Busaidi gained power in Mombasa in 1837 and the Mazrui family fled to the south and north of Mombasa where they created large coconut plantations which can be seen today at Gasi and Takaungu. Sultan Seyyid Said moved his power base from Muscat to Zanzibar and by 1840 the Swahili Coast was under Omani rule.

Eventually, the Arabs would give way to the British regime, which would in turn rule the Swahili Coast – by whip or will. By the 1840s, when Krapf visited, major economic changes were under way. Mombasa was still not a great entrepot port, although the first Kamba caravans had come to the coast and the Indian traders of Mombasa and Zanzibar were beginning to finance caravans into the interior. To some extent this deprived the local Mijikenda, especially the Giriama, of their role as intermediaries. This, coupled with the removal of the Mazrui to Takaungu, led to something of a decline in contact between Mombasa and the smaller outposts.

Until 1907, the senior official in British East Africa was His Majesty’s Commissioner. Beneath him, there was a Sub-commissioner in charge of each Province, and a Collector in charge of each district of the province. After 1907, the highest official was the Governor, under whom there was a Provincial Commissioner in each province, and a District Commissioner in charge of each district. On the coast there were also Assistant District Commissioners at Rabai and Takaungu, for Mombasa and Malindi Districts. In 1921 the Provincial Commissioners became Senior Commissioners, and the DC Mombasa became Resident Commissioner.


Historic towns around the world offer a glimpse into the past, preserving architecture, culture, and stories from different eras. In Kenya, some of the oldest towns are found along the coast, where medieval trade put on the map long before developments in the hinterland. Among these is Lamu town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its Swahili architecture and cultural traditions.


Touring Kilifi County offers a delightful blend of coastal beauty, lovely beaches, cultural richness, natural wonders, and fascinating ancient ruins. Whether you’re seeking pristine beaches, historical sites, or vibrant cultural experiences – or a combination, Kilifi promises a memorable and enriching travel experience.

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